Honestly, nobody wakes up hoping to have a “stripped screw day,” but here we are. Maybe you’re upgrading your entry hardware for better security, or your lock set just needs a new battery or code, and this pesky screw is standing in the way. The good news? There’s almost always a way to get that stubborn screw out—if you’ve got a little patience and the right technique. Let me walk you through the best methods, step by step, so you don’t have to resort to a crowbar or call a locksmith just yet.
Why Do Screws Strip on Handleset Backplates?
You might be wondering, “How did this even happen?” Stripped screws are nearly always the result of simple wear and tear. Over time, repeated use, especially with a heavy-traffic door, wears down the screw head. All it takes is a few slips with the screwdriver, maybe while changing the battery or reprogramming a smart lock remote, and suddenly the cross or slot in the screw head is mangled.
Another common culprit is using the wrong tool. If your screwdriver or drill bit doesn’t fit exactly right, you can round out the head pretty quickly. Sometimes, manufacturers like Schlage, Baldwin, or Yale use screws that are just a bit softer than you’d hope—which means they give out before you do. If you live in a coastal area or somewhere humid, rust can also make the problem worse, fusing the screw in and making it even harder to remove.
One more thing: Door handlesets are built to be sturdy. The backplate, especially, is meant to keep everything in place, so when a screw strips, it’s usually wedged in tight. That’s why yanking or forcing it isn’t the solution. Trying to muscle it out can strip it further or, worse, damage the backplate or the whole locking mechanism. So, starting with the right approach really matters.
First Steps: Prep Before You Tackle the Stripped Screw
Before you grab any tools, take a breath. Rushing in is a recipe for making things worse. Start by gathering a few basics:
- Penetrating oil (like WD-40): This helps loosen any rust or debris that’s locking the screw in place.
- Rubber bands: Oddly enough, these can add grip for your screwdriver.
- Proper screwdriver or bit: Confirm you’ve got the right size and shape for your handleset screw—Philips, flathead, or hex.
- Needle-nose pliers: These can help if the screw head is poking out just a bit.
Spray a little penetrating oil on the screw and let it soak in for a few minutes. This loosens up old rust and makes everything less stubborn. Wipe off any excess oil so your hands and tools don’t slip.
Here’s the thing—if you keep using a worn or wrong-size screwdriver, you’re just going to make things worse. Now’s a good time to double-check your tools. Make sure your screwdriver (manual or electric) fits snugly into the screw head. If it wiggles or rocks, it’s too small or the wrong style.
Finally, clear the area around the backplate. If you’re working on a Kwikset or Yale lock, you might need to gently pull the handle away a bit to get a better angle. That’s way easier now than later, when you’re frustrated and possibly sweating. Give yourself space and good lighting—it makes a bigger difference than you’d think.
Rubber Band Trick: Simple, Cheap, and Surprisingly Effective
This one sounds almost too easy, but it works. Grab a wide, thick rubber band (something from a bunch of broccoli is perfect), and lay it flat across the stripped screw head. Then, press your screwdriver firmly into the rubber band and turn slowly. The rubber fills in the stripped spaces, giving your tool a bit more grip.
The key here is slow, steady pressure. If you’re using a power drill, switch to manual. You want control, not speed. Start turning, and if you feel the screwdriver bite, keep going. With luck, the screw will start to turn and come out. If it slips or chews up the band, try a fresh spot or even double up the rubber.
If it doesn’t work the first time, don’t despair—sometimes you need to repeat the process or try a slightly thicker band. I’ve used this trick on both interior and exterior handlesets, and it’s saved me several afternoons (and a lot of swearing).
Remember, this method is best when the screw is only slightly stripped. If the head is completely gone or rounded, don’t keep forcing it. You don’t want to push the rubber band inside, making things messier.
Using Needle-Nose Pliers to Turn the Screw Out
If the head of your stripped screw is sticking out from the handleset backplate—even just a little—grab your needle-nose pliers. Clamp the jaws tightly around the screw head and turn it counterclockwise. It takes some patience, because you’re probably only moving it a quarter turn at a time.
This is where slow and steady wins the race. Don’t try to twist too hard, or you’ll slip and risk scratching your handleset. If the screw won’t budge, try adding a little more penetrating oil and waiting a few more minutes. Sometimes a gentle back-and-forth rocking motion helps break up rust or old paint that’s binding the screw.
Let me explain why this method works: You’re bypassing the stripped-out head entirely, gripping the outside instead. This works really well with older screws or those in cheaper remote handleset brands where the screw metal is softer (looking at you, some bargain hardware brands).
If you can’t get a good grip because the head is flush, you might need to move on to more heavy-duty solutions. But when it works, it’s extremely satisfying—almost like pulling out a loose tooth.
Slot a New Groove: The Flathead Screwdriver Hack
Say you’ve tried all the gentle methods, and that screw head looks like a crime scene—dirty, mangled, no grip left. You can actually make a new groove using a rotary tool (like a Dremel) or even a small hacksaw blade. The idea is to cut a fresh straight slot across what’s left of the screw head, just deep enough for a flathead screwdriver.
Honestly, this method takes a steady hand and a little nerve. You don’t want to cut into the handleset backplate itself, especially if you plan on putting it back on. But if you go slow, it’s very doable—even if you’ve never used a Dremel before. Wear safety glasses, and make sure you don’t slip.
Once you have your new groove, line up a flathead screwdriver that fits snugly into the slot. Apply firm, even pressure and slowly turn the screw counterclockwise. If it starts to give, keep going. If it slips, you might need to cut the groove a little deeper, but be careful not to weaken the screw head completely.
This trick saved me once when working on an old Schlage handleset where the screw was almost fused in place. A new groove can mean the difference between success and a destroyed backplate.
Keep in mind, this method works best if the screw isn’t too rusted or seized inside the door. If the screw is giving you a fight, try soaking it again with penetrating oil before slotting.
Screw Extractor Kits: The Heavy-Duty Solution
If you’ve made it this far and nothing else has worked, it’s time to bring out the big guns—a screw extractor kit. These kits are designed for exactly this scenario, whether you’re dealing with stripped screws on your handleset, an old thermostat mount, or even a stubborn battery terminal screw on a universal remote.
Here’s how a typical screw extractor works:
- First, use a drill to make a small, shallow hole in the center of the stripped screw head. This gives the extractor something to grip.
- Next, insert the extractor into the hole and turn it counterclockwise. The threads on the extractor are designed to dig into the metal and pull the screw out as you twist.
- Go slow—don’t force it. If the extractor bites in, the screw usually starts moving almost magically.
I know the idea of drilling into your handleset might feel intimidating, but as long as you use the right size bit (and stop before you go too deep), it’s pretty straightforward. Just be sure your drill is set to reverse—so you don’t drive the screw in further.
If you plan on swapping out handlesets or doing lots of home repairs, investing in a screw extractor kit is worth it. They work on most major brands, from Baldwin to Kwikset, and can save a lot of headaches.
After removing the screw, check the hole in your backplate. If the threads are damaged, you might need a slightly larger screw for reinstallation, or even a little wood filler if the hole is too wide.
Alternative Methods: Last Resorts and Cautions
Let’s say you’ve tried everything, but the screw still won’t budge. There are a few more tricks you can try, but approach these with care.
- Superglue a Screwdriver: Add a dab of strong glue to the tip of your screwdriver, press it into the stripped head, and let it set for a few minutes. Sometimes the bond is enough to turn the screw out—just don’t break your screwdriver in the process.
- Tap It Loose: Place your screwdriver in the head and gently tap the handle with a hammer (not too hard!). This can break the screw’s bond to the backplate.
- Cut It Out: If all else fails, you might need to carefully drill out the screw completely. Use a bit slightly smaller than the screw’s shaft and drill straight down the center. The screw may come out in pieces, but it’ll be gone.
Here’s the thing—these methods can damage your handleset backplate or the door itself if you’re not careful. Only go this route if replacing the handleset is an option, or you’re desperate to finish the job. The key is always to go slow and watch what you’re doing. If in doubt, it’s better to call a pro than risk further damage.
Preventing Stripped Screws in the Future
After you finally get that stubborn screw out, you probably don’t want to deal with this again. There are a few simple things you can do to avoid stripped screws on your handleset backplate in the future.
- Use the right screwdriver: Always match the size and style to the screw head. Even a slightly wrong tool can ruin the screw over time.
- Don’t overtighten: Stop turning once the screw feels snug. Overtightening crushes the head and makes future removal harder.
- Apply anti-seize or lubricant: A little dab on the threads (especially in humid areas) keeps screws from rusting and fusing in place.
- Replace worn screws: If you notice a screw starting to wear or deform, swap it out before it strips completely.
It seems obvious, but when you’re in a rush—installing a new Schlage smart lock or resetting the battery on your remote-triggered lock—it’s easy to cut corners. Taking the extra thirty seconds to check your tools and screws saves time (and your sanity) in the long run.
When to Call a Locksmith or Professional
Sometimes, even the best DIY spirit isn’t enough. If your handleset is high-security, antique, or seems fused to the door after all your efforts, it might be smarter to call a pro. Locksmiths have specialized extractors, experience with every brand under the sun, and know how to avoid damaging your lock or door.
Here’s when professional help makes sense:
- The screw is fused or snapped off flush with the backplate.
- You’re worried about damaging a fancy, expensive, or antique handleset.
- You need the job done fast and safely.
Honestly, sometimes paying a locksmith is cheaper than replacing a door or lockset you’ve accidentally wrecked trying to fix it yourself. There’s no shame in calling in help—especially if your home security or a rental deposit is on the line.
Wrapping Things Up: Removing Stripped Screws Without the Headache
Nobody enjoys wrestling with a stripped screw, especially when it’s wedged into something important like a handleset backplate. But with a little patience and the right technique, you can almost always get it out—without destroying your lock or your nerves. Whether you’re replacing a dead battery, resetting a Schlage code, or just swapping out hardware, taking the time to do it right pays off.
Start with simple fixes, like the rubber band trick or needle-nose pliers, and move up to more heavy-duty solutions only if you have to. And remember, preventing future stripped screws is all about using the right tools, not overtightening, and swapping out worn parts early.
If you’ve made it through, give yourself a pat on the back (and maybe a cup of coffee or a cold drink). Troubleshooting your way through stubborn home hardware is never easy, but now you know how to handle a stripped screw like a pro.
